The 2005 Roero Riserva Renesio is the ripest and richest of these three Roeros. The wine’s concentration is impressive, particularly in the way the fruit completely covers the tannins, conveying an impression of near-seamlessness. With time in the glass the wine’s inner perfume emerges, but the Renesio remains a Roero essentially built on a frame of very ripe fruit.

Accordingly, it is the most approachable of these 2005 Roeros but the wine’s early accessibility should not compromise its ability to develop positively in bottle. This is another terrific showing from Malvira.