Hand-harvesting preserves the best qualities of this fruit, and the very uncommon step of barrel-aging a “humble” Côtes-du-Rhône is necessary to integrate the tannins here into the impressive structure that’s more akin to Gigondas. Its knockout aromas of black cherry and cassis get fleshed out with dark spices and black olive for a nose that conveys seemingly impossible promise. It more than lives up to that promise with an intense and compelling palate of deftly balanced fruity, spicy, and meaty characteristics, and a texture that begs to be slowly sipped and savored.