The 2019 Etna Rosso Moganazzi is spicy and intense, blasting up from the glass with crushed ashen stone, red currants, wild strawberries, sage and hints of cedar. It’s rich and pliant upon entry, yet quickly firms up through a mix of mineral-tinged berries, brisk acids and grippy tannins that arrive quite early and hold firm.

There is plenty of primary fruit and depth to balance, as it tapers off structured and long, leaving hints of licorice and inner rose to linger.