Ar. Pe. Pe.—short for Arturo Pelizzatti Perego, who relaunched the fam- ily winery in 1984—harvests chiavennasca (a local name for nebbiolo) from the upper reaches of Valtellina’s Sassella subzone. In 2010, its rocky soils and cooling breezes gave a red-fruited wine with a chiseled mineral spine.

Floral scents and a white-pepper spice lift the wine’s rich flavors of maraschino cherry and blood orange, its cool precision evoking the wine’s Alpine origins.