“Simple” in this case does not mean one dimensional; it means without affect of lofty purpose. The Times had a recipe last week for a shrimp risotto using a homemade stock from the shells, and it (correctly) suggested a short soak of said shells so that the stock wouldn’t get too skanky. The risotto would easily take a “serious” white Burgundy, but what if the moment wasn’t right, or you weren’t in the mood for “important” wine, or the important bottle was corked and you had Darting’s Pinot Blanc in the fridge? Believe me, this is more than a consolation prize.

​Finally, we have a leesy texture – we have texture in the first place – and a chipper, quipping finish. The wine is a gift of clarity, integrity and candor. We can’t afford to spurn such things – though we can easily afford this wine.