As the wine name suggests, this Barolo is assembled a single berry at a time, "one by one." With a high price point that reflects a labor-intensive winemaking process, the Elio Altare 2018 Barolo Unoperuno shows some softness and sweetness of a hot vintage. This wine is made of a blend of fruit selected from Arborina (in La Morra), Cannubi (in Barolo), Pernanno (in Castiglione Falletto), Sarmassa (in Barolo) and Ceretta (in Serralunga d'Alba). The bouquet reveals soft cherry confit and dried raspberry with spice, leather and dark licorice. Made entirely by hand, this is a limited production of 1,300 bottles.

Bright ruby. On the nose it shows with stony hints, some graphite, then rich plum fruit, Amarena cherry, also hints of liquorice and mint. On the palate it is very powerful and compact, opens on dark fruit, tightly meshed and polished, plus punchy tannin, dark elegance, spans a wide arc, can store for a long time.